deep dive 03: Ann Tjian for Kenar

feat. a missing vest

Sometime in the last few years, I misplaced a black lace vest I “borrowed” from my mom in 2010. It’s uncommon for me to lose clothing—I can normally place every garment I own (with a friend, in my childhood bedroom, at the dry cleaner, in an underbed storage bag, etc.) and the loss of this item was unsettling, at first solely for sentimental reasons. But it has proven impossible to find a replacement for this vest! In another recent online attempt, I found (but did not buy) this one, which looks like it might be the exact same vest, just in white. Hoping to find it in black, I searched every usual site for the name on the label: Ann Tjian for Kenar.

Here’s the Poshmark listing for this one

The most information I can find on Ann Tjian herself is essentially a footnote in an object description from a digitized catalog of a historical society in Staten Island: “(Ann Tjian, designer of the blouse, was a native of Shanghai and co-founder of the Manhattan-based fashion company Kenar Enterprises.)”¹ (The woman who donated this top seems like a fun lady—the historical context for the garment notes, “This outfit was worn by Jean (Mrs. Albert) Roland of Staten Island for parties and meetings. She sewed the pants and tunic herself, and purchased the blouse to match. In a conversation in July 2009, she recalled being complimented on the outfit while attending a gallery opening in Manhattan, and said that she liked wearing it with form-fitting boots.”)

As for the company, Kenar Enterprises, it looks like they filed for an initial trademark in 1977 and filed for bankruptcy in 1998.² For years, Linda Evangelista was the face of the brand (interesting!), and at some point they had storefronts in Manhattan and the Hamptons (even some abroad), though this seems to have been partly what contributed to the bankruptcy filing.³ One particular (perhaps misguided, if well-meaning) ad, stirred up controversy over an empty chair as a representation of a family member lost to AIDS—which honestly seems relatively bold for a brand to do in 1992.⁴

The only other results for Ann Tjian that I’m getting are “private citizen” vibes, i.e. one of those creepy age/also known as/address websites, so I’ll stop there.

While I was unsuccessful in finding a duplicate vest, I did find some other items, linked below—maybe there’s a dupe of one of your own mother’s garments that you borrowed and lost!

Ann Tjian For Kenar Ivory Black Sheath Dress Size 8 80s Sweetheart Classic Vtg $19 (looks like this might be the same dress on eBay for $10…)

Ann Tjian for Kenar Red Black Striped 100% Linen Double Button Blazer Jacket L $29

Like New Kenar Wool Dress Shorts ~ Size 8 $8

Vintage Kenar Anne Tjian Black Pleated Skirt $35

Vintage 80s 90s Ann Tjian for Kenar Gold Metallic Bodysuit Wrap Blouse Top Sz S $25

Ann Tjian for Kenar Sz 10 Red Cocktail Sleeveless Dress Crew Neck Back Zip $27

Ann Tjian For Kenar Size 2 Vintage High Waisted Linen Shorts $20

ANN TJIAN for KENAR Black & Gold METALLIC TANK Top Shirt Size M $35

1980s Plum Silk Vintage Minimalist Button Down Blouse $29

Vintage Silk Blouse 1980s Ann Tjian for Kenar Rhinestone Studded Silk Top with Epaulettes Large/XL $36

Vtg 80s Ann Tjian For Kenar Jacket Coat Sz S Colorblock Metallic Bronze Blue Red $75

Here’s how I would style (in order) the red dress, the glittery leotard, and the red and black blazer:

As always, if you buy one of the items in the newsletter—send pics!

<3 E

P.S. If you missed the first two in this series, you can find 01 here and 02 here.

1. “Object Record.” Ensemble | Staten Island Historical Society, statenisland.pastperfectonline.com/webobject/E814B227-2EF1-43F0-A98C-011674965160.

2. “KENAR ENTERPRISES, LTD. Trademarks :: Justia Trademarks.” Trademarks.justia.com, trademarks.justia.com/owners/kenar-enterprises-ltd-178284/.

Bloomberg News. “Metro Business; Kenar Files for Chapter 11.” The New York Times, 17 September 1998. www.nytimes.com/1998/09/17/nyregion/metro-business-kenar-files-for-chapter-11.html.

3. Leder, Michelle. “HIGH-FLYING KENAR LANDS WITH THUD: APPAREL FIRM FILES FOR CHAPTER 11; CHIEF HOPES TO SELL.” Crain’s, 21 September 1998. https://www.crainsnewyork.com/article/19980921/SUB/809210738/high-flying-kenar-lands-with-thud-apparel-firm-files-for-chapter-11-chief-hopes-to-sellb.

4. Lockwood, Lisa. “Controversies and Cappuccino: Laspata DeCaro’s Cinematic Moments.” Women’s Wear Daily, 30 March 2012. https://wwd.com/feature/controversies-and-cappuccino-laspata-decaros-cinematic-moments-5836120-650358/.